We’re in a labyrinth of sod banks. The water has a purple sheen in the dawn light and it’s mirror-flat. In every direction, another creek arm snakes away into the vast expanse of green marsh grass. As my friend Capt. Eric Kerber nudges us forward with the trolling motor toward a point with mullet flipping off the end, we spook a few fish. Three mud plumes erupt on the shallow bottom in front of us.

Along the bank, a bulging push of water zooms away. If you didn’t know this was New Jersey, you’d swear those were redfish and this was South Carolina, yet less than a mile west of our position behind the seaside city of Wildwood lies the Garden State Parkway in rare form—free of traffic because it’s only 5:30 a.m. and because Labor Day has passed.

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