The legend “Stairway to Heaven” is carved into the steep steps that lead from the helicopter landing area on the tundra to the Ryabaga Camp on Russia’s Ponoi River, one of the world’s most celebrated Atlantic salmon fisheries.
The scene as you descend the stairway is inspiring — steep, birch-blanketed banks slant down to a wide ribbon of blue that bends out of view in the distance. The red roofs of the camp poke up from the valley below. This slice of heaven comes at a rather lofty price — prime weeks can eclipse $15,000 per person, and that’s before one has traveled to Murmansk. Yet, a large percentage of guests are return visitors, having trekked to this remote region of northwestern Russia’s Kola Peninsula 20, 30, even 50 times.
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